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Camellias in Florida 1
Robert Black2Camellias (see Figure 1 ) have been a part of the southern landscape for almost 200 years. They are native to the Orient and were introduced into the U.S. near Charleston, South Carolina in 1786. The common name camellia refers to varieties and hybrids of Camellia japonica and to the less known varieties of C. sasanqua and C. reticulate .
The climatic conditions of north Florida are well suited for many camellia varieties. Camellias are grown less extensively in central Florida and even less in south Florida. Special care in regard to exposure, soil modification, and watering is necessary to have successful growth and flowering of camellias in central and south Florida.
Figure 1. Camellia flower. Camellias can serve several functions in the landscape including foundation plantings, screens, accent plants, background groupings and hedges. Maximum benefit can be achieved by mass plantings or groupings. Single plants scattered throughout the home landscape create a busy or cluttered feeling.
Camellias flower in the fall and winter when their display of colorful blooms is most appreciated. During the remainder of the year their evergreen foliage, interesting shapes and textures, and relatively slow growth make camellias excellent landscape plants.
Selection of Varieties
Thousands of camellia varieties are offered by commercial nurseries and many are introduced each year from seedlings and mutations. Varieties with single tiered or double flowers are available with colors from pure white to brilliant crimson and combinations of colors in numerous patterns. Types and forms of camellia flowers are illustrated in Figure 2 .
Figure 2. Types and forms of camellia flowers. Camellia plants can be selected for size and form ranging from small and irregular to large and upright. Texture and foliage color also differ among varieties.
Midseason flowering varieties that bloom from November through January are best suited for Florida conditions. Warm fall temperatures may prevent early varieties from flowering properly. Late-blooming selections may reinitiate vegetative growth before the end of the flowering period which results in "bullnoses." Bullnosing is characterized by poor quality flowers which do not open fully and may even drop while still tight buds.
The more common Florida varieties are presented in Table 1 . It is impossible to list in this publication all the varieties adapted to Florida. Comprehensive lists of varieties are available in other publications, including "Camellia Nomenclature" of the Southern California Camellia Society.
General Culture
Camellias perform best in partially shaded locations which are enhanced by good water drainage and air movement. A location that meets the basic cultural requirements will enable plants to withstand adverse conditions.Soils. Fertile soils high in organic matter are preferred. However, soil amendments and proper fertilization can modify many Florida soils for growing camellias. Camellias prefer slightly acid soils. Soil pH should ideally range from 5.0 to 5.5, but it need not be adjusted if between 5.0 and 6.5.
Soil with a high pH can be acidified by adding superfine dusting or wettable sulfur. Care must be exercised in using sulfur because heavy applications will cause root injury. Not more than 1 pound of sulfur per 100 square feet of bed or 1/2 pound per cubic yard of soil should be applied at one time. The pH of highly acidic soil can be raised by incorporating dolomitic limestone into the soil. The initial pH and the soil characteristics determine the amount of amendment necessary to correct the pH.
The soil must be well drained because camellias will not grow in wet areas. Do not plant camellias in areas having a high water table and/or hardpan. This will result in a shallow root system which is more susceptible to injury during dry periods. Areas with a hardpan can be planted if a lateral tile drain is provided or if the hardpan layer is broken.
Exposure. Camellias should be located in areas where cold air can move in and out freely, but the area should be protected from cold winds. Plantings under pine trees or on the north or west side of buildings are usually injured less by cold temperatures. This is true because the plants can gradually thaw or warm in the morning before being exposed to direct sunlight. Dense shade may result in sparse foliage and poor flowering. Plants exposed to full sun may appear yellow-green, but may yield more flowers than plants in heavy shade.
Transplanting. The entire planting bed should be prepared if possible rather than individual holes. Begin by spading or tilling the entire bed to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. There may be some benefit to amending the soil in the entire bed with peat, compost or other organic amendments. If organic amendments are used, mix 3 to 6 inches of organic matter into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. A complete fertilizer, micronutrients, and acidifying materials should be added as needed during bed preparation.
Certain situations call for individual planting holes. The hole should be 2 to 3 times the diameter of the root ball and no deeper than the height of the root ball. Disturbing the soil beneath the plant may cause it to settle too deeply into the soil.
Camellias are best transplanted from November to February so the roots can become established before the summer heat. Late spring or summer planting is possible if extra care is provided.
Plants should be spaced according to their mature size and rate of growth, usually at least five feet apart. The plants should be set into the soil at the same depth as they were in the nursery field or container. A 2- to 3-inch mulch will reduce temperature fluctuations and conserve water in the root zone.
Fertilization. Due to heavy leaching of nutrients from sandy soils, frequent and light applications are recommended. For example, 1/2 pound of 12-4-8 or 15-5-15 should be applied per 100 square feet of planting area four times a year. Applications are recommended: (1) before spring growth begins, (2) after the first growth flush, (3) midsummer, and (4) early winter after the danger of late growth has passed. Late summer fertilization may cause tender growth which may be injured by early cold periods. Water the plants before and after fertilizer applications.
Chlorotic plants are common in soils with high pH. This occurs because many of the micronutrients like iron, manganese and zinc are tied up in alkaline soils. Nutrient sprays applied to the foliage, or micronutrient mixture applied to the soil may correct the problem temporarily, however, long lasting correction will involve lowering the soil pH.
Watering. Irrigation may be necessary for optimum plant growth during extended dry periods. Enough water should be applied every 10 days to 2 weeks during dry periods to wet the soil to a depth of 14 to 18 inches. This watering schedule encourages a deeper root system than frequent, shallow watering.
Pruning. Camellias should require little pruning if they are properly used in the landscape. Necessary pruning should be done in late winter or very early spring. Prune by removing undesirable branches to retain a natural shape and branching habit. Shearing should be avoided because it will result in a dense layer of foliage that blocks light from the interior branches. Shearing also destroys the natural plant form.
Propagation. Seedage, cuttings and grafting are common methods of propagating camellias. Seed propagation results in tremendous seedling variation with a high percentage of undesirable seedlings. Seed should be collected as soon as they are ripe (July to September) and placed in flats or pots. Germination can be expected in 2 to 4 months if the seed coat is broken or scarified before sown.
Cuttings are the most popular means of propagating camellias. This method insures plants that are true to the characteristics of the parent plant. Cuttings are usually taken in April or May from hardened spring growth.
Grafting is used to propagate varieties that have a weak root system. Grafting also permits the combination of plants with compatable and complimenting characteristics. For example, one plant has desirable flower color, but the root system is susceptible to root rot. Another plant has an undesirable flower, but a strong, vigorous root system. Grafting permits the union of the desired top (scion) with the desired root system (root stock) to yield a superior plant.
Pests
Insects and Arthropods. Scale, spider mites, aphids, thrips and cutworms are among the most important pests of camellias. Scale generally feed on the underside of leaves and may not be noticed until large populations have developed. The three common scale are tea scale, Florida red scale, and camellia scale.Mature scale in large numbers are difficult to control. Frequent inspections will prevent population build up and allow control of the young scale with a recommended insecticide.
Spider mites are tiny pests generally found on the underside of leaves. The tops of infested leaves soon display a rusty or reddish speckling of the green surface. Spider mite infestations usually appear during hot, dry conditions and in areas of the landscape with poor air circulation and little exposure to rainfall.
Aphids live in colonies and injure camellias by sucking juices from young leaves. Injured leaves curl and become distorted. Aphids secrete a sticky substance called honeydew which is an excellent medium for sooty mold, a black fungus. Early detection is important.
Cutworms live in the mulch and soil beneath the camellias during the day and attack the new plant growth at night. The application of a bait in late afternoon will provide control.
Thrips are very small, slender insects that feed on camellia flowers. Close examination is necessary to find them. Their injury is revealed as distorted flowers. Specific insecticide recommendations can be obtained from your local county extension office.
Diseases. Diseases common to camellias in Florida include dieback, leaf and bud gall, root rot and leaf spots. Dieback is most common during the spring months, although it does occur during other periods. It is characterized by wilt and sudden death of new twigs. Older plant parts can also be infected but usually die more slowly. The leaves characteristically remain on the branches for considerable lengths of time after they die.
The best control of dieback is sanitation. The fungus causing this problem is inside the stem and is not satisfactorily controlled by fungicides. Diseased branches should be removed about six inches below the lowest visible symptoms of disease. Pruning tools must be sterilized after each cut with an antiseptic like 10% chlorox solution. Removed branches should be destroyed.
Leaf and bud galls appear as thickened and enlarged leaves or buds during the cool spring months. One or several leaves on a single shoot may be affected. Control can be accomplished in the home garden by simply pinching off and destroying infected leaves. Disease activity usually stops with the advent of warm weather.
Camellias are occasionally attacked by root rot. The entire plant or a section of the plant will gradually become weak and die. There is no control of this disease once the plant has been attacked. Infected plants should be removed and destroyed. Since the disease is soil borne, soil treatments are necessary before replanting.
Leaf spots are quite common on Camellias. These spots vary in size and shape depending upon the species of the fungi causing the problem. Leaf spots do little damage and usually only attack leaves injured by another means. Attention should be given to improve general cultural practices if leaf spots appear.
Fungicide recommendations can be obtained from your local county extension office.
Tables
Table 1. Camellias for Florida.
Variety
Flower Color
Season of Flower
Flower Size and Form
Plant Form
Growth Rate
Comments Camellia japonica
Alba Plen White Early
Medium, formal double Bushy Slow Adapted to S. Florida Betty Sheffield White blotched red and pink Midseason
Medium to large, semi-double
Compact Medium Waved petals Betty Sheffield Blush Light pink and deep pink marks Midseason Medium to large, semi-double
Compact Medium Sport of Betty Sheffield Betty Sheffield Supreme
White with deep pink border
Midseason Medium to large, semi-double
Compact Medium Sport of Betty Sheffield Charlie Bettes White with yellow stamens
Early Very large, semi-double Compact Vigorous -- Clark Hubbs Dark red
Midseason Large, loose peony Compact, upright Vigorous Brilliant flower Daikagura Rose pink splotched white
Early Medium to large, peony Compact Slow -- Debutante Light pink
Early to midseason Medium, full peony Upright Vigorous Adapted to S. Florida Doris Ellis Blush pink
Early Medium, formal double Upright Vigorous Flower with darker pink outer petals & coral rose center Ecclefield White
Midseason Large to very large, semi-double Compact Vigorous -- Elegans Splender Light pink, edged white
Early to midseason Large to very large, anemone Spreading Slow Deep petal serrations Elegans Supreme Rose pink
Early to midseason Large to very large, anemone Spreading Slow Sport of Elegans Gigantea Red marbled white
Midseason Large, semi-double anemone to peony Open Vigorous Very large flowers Kramer's Supreme Turkey red
Midseason Large to very large, full peony Compact, upright Vigorous -- Lady Clare Deep pink
Early to midseason Large semi-double Bushy Vigorous Flowers fall soon after opening Mathotiana Rubra Crimson
Mid to late season Large to very large; rose to formal double Compact, upright Vigorous Same as Mathotiana Mathotiana Supreme Crimson
Mid to late season Very large, semi-double Compact, upright Vigorous Irregular petals interspersed with stamens Mine-No-Yuki Pink, edged white
Midseason Medium, single Compact Slow Darker pink stripes on sides of petals, often listed as Sasanqua Mrs Hooper Connell White
Early Medium, peony Bushy Slow Sport of Alba Plena Pink Perfection Shell pink
Early to midseason Small, formal double Upright Vigorous Older variety Pirates Gold Dark red
Mid to late season Large, peony semi-double Spreading Medium -- Professor C.S. Sargent Dark red
Midseason Medium, full peony Compact, upright Vigorous Withstands direct sun, good understock Red Giant Red
Midseason Large, loose peony Upright Medium Adapted to S. Florida, withstands direct sun Rena Swick Bright pink, veined darker
Midseason Large, semi-double Upright Medium Heavy textured petals stand apart Rena Swick Variegated Bright pink and white
Midseason Large, semi-double Upright Medium Variegated Rena Swick Rosea Superba Rose pink
Mid to late season Large to very large, rose to formal double Compact Vigorous Sport of Mathotiana Tom Cat Light rose pink
Mid to late season Large, semi-double Open, upright Medium Fluted petals Tom Cat Variegrated Light rose pink, blotched pink
Mid to late season Large, semi-double Open, upright Medium Variegated form of Tom Cat Tomorrow Strawberry red
Early to midseason Large to very large, semi-double Open, slightly pendulous Vigorous Irregular petals Tomorrow Variegrated Strawberry red, blotched white
Early to midseason Large to very large, semi-double Open, slightly pendulous Vigorous Variegated Tomorrow Victory White White
Midseason Medium, semi-double to loose peony Open, upright Vigorous -- Ville de Nantes Red blotched white
Mid to late season Medium to large, semi-double Upright Slow Subject to dieback Camellia reticulata Francie L. Rose pink
Midseason Very large, semi-double Upright Vigorous Irregular, upright waxy petals Lasca Beauty Soft pink
Midseason Very large, semi-double Open, upright Vigorous Heavy textured, thick petals Mouchang Salmon pink
Midseason Very large, single to semi-double Upright Vigorous -- Valentine Day Salmon pink
Midseason Large to very large, formal double Upright Vigorous Flower with rosebud center Camellia sasanqua Daydream White edged rose pink
Early Large, single Compact, upright Medium Good understock for grafting Grandiflora Alba White
Early Very large, single Compact, upright Medium -- Jean May Shell pink
Early Large, double Compact, upright Slow -- Setsugekka White
Early Large, semi-double Large, upright Vigorous Good understock for grafting Hybrids Dream Boat Bright pink with lavender cast
Midseason Large, formal double Open, upright Medium Flower with curved petals Julia Hamiter Blush pink to white
Midseason Medium, semi-double Compact Medium --
Footnotes
1. This document is Circular 461, Department of Environmental Horticulture, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Date first printed: September 1985. Revised: December 1997, September 2003. Please visit the EDIS website at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/2. Robert Black, Extension Consumer Horticulturist; Department of Environmental Horticulture, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611.
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. For more information on obtaining other extension publications, contact your county Cooperative Extension service.
U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Larry Arrington, Dean.
Copyright Information
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