Free Nutrients: My oak trees have been dropping leaves like crazy this fall and winter. WooHoo, free nutrients for my planted shrubs and perennials. I created large plant beads so the leaves can drop in and provide a mulch layer that decomposes supplying an organic nutrients source to my plants. It cuts down on the [&#8230;]

<h6><strong><span style="color: #000080">Free Nutrients:</span></strong></h6>
<p>My oak trees have been dropping leaves like crazy this fall and winter. WooHoo, free nutrients for my planted shrubs and perennials. I created large plant beads so the leaves can drop in and provide a mulch layer that decomposes supplying an organic nutrients source to my plants. It cuts down on the amount of hardwood mulch I buy and saves me a lot of labor!</p>
<h6><strong><span style="color: #000080">Benefits:</span></strong></h6>
<p>Organic mulch can improve soils organic matter. I am amazed at the number of earth worms that hang out in my mulched plant beds. My soil is so dark and rich in these areas, I almost forget that Florida has mostly sandy soils. Other benefits of mulch include buffering soil temperatures. It keeps plant roots cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. My dogs have figured out that they can scratch away mulch and find a cool place to watch the world go by during the heat of summer. Mulch also slows moisture evaporation and reduces the water needs of plants. When applied to a depth of 3&#8243;-4&#8243;, mulch can help shade out weeds. It also helps reduce soil erosion. Lastly, it can protect plants. It can prevent certain plant diseases and help keep mowers and string trimmers from being used to close to plants and trees.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" fetchpriority="high" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-2400 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="300" height="225" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/suwanneeco/files/2021/02/C.backyard.Coreopsis.flowers.salvia.Caylee-2-300x225.jpg"></p>
<h6><strong><span style="color: #000080">Types of Mulch:</span></strong></h6>
<p>You can mulch with leaves, pine bark, mixed hardwood, melaleuca, eucalyptus, utility and pine straw. Or you can use in-organic mulches such as gravel, and river rock. One thing to avoid with mulch is piling it up on the tree trunk or plant. That is called volcano mulching and can keep the bark too wet or provide habitat for rodents to chew tender bark and can ultimately kill the tree.</p>
<h6><strong><span style="color: #000080">How Much and When:</span></strong></h6>
<p>If buying bagged mulch, one cubic foot will cover four square feet to a depth of 3&#8243;. Beat the weed seeds and summer heat by spreading your mulch now.</p>


Free Nutrients:
My oak trees have been dropping leaves like crazy this fall and winter. WooHoo, free nutrients for my planted shrubs and perennials. I created large plant beads so the leaves can drop in and provide a mulch layer that decomposes supplying an organic nutrients source to my plants. It cuts down on the amount of hardwood mulch I buy and saves me a lot of labor!
Benefits:
Organic mulch can improve soils organic matter. I am amazed at the number of earth worms that hang out in my mulched plant beds. My soil is so dark and rich in these areas, I almost forget that Florida has mostly sandy soils. Other benefits of mulch include buffering soil temperatures. It keeps plant roots cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. My dogs have figured out that they can scratch away mulch and find a cool place to watch the world go by during the heat of summer. Mulch also slows moisture evaporation and reduces the water needs of plants. When applied to a depth of 3″-4″, mulch can help shade out weeds. It also helps reduce soil erosion. Lastly, it can protect plants. It can prevent certain plant diseases and help keep mowers and string trimmers from being used to close to plants and trees.

Types of Mulch:
You can mulch with leaves, pine bark, mixed hardwood, melaleuca, eucalyptus, utility and pine straw. Or you can use in-organic mulches such as gravel, and river rock. One thing to avoid with mulch is piling it up on the tree trunk or plant. That is called volcano mulching and can keep the bark too wet or provide habitat for rodents to chew tender bark and can ultimately kill the tree.
How Much and When:
If buying bagged mulch, one cubic foot will cover four square feet to a depth of 3″. Beat the weed seeds and summer heat by spreading your mulch now.

Free Nutrients: My oak trees have been dropping leaves like crazy this fall and winter. WooHoo, free nutrients for my planted shrubs and perennials. I created large plant beads so the leaves can drop in and provide a mulch layer that decomposes supplying an organic nutrients source to my plants. It cuts down on the […]

Oak Leaves have been Falling Like Rain

Vermicomposting = worm composting Do you live in a small space and want to have a neat little efficient compost bin to recycle your kitchen scraps? Vermiculture, also known as worm composting, is becoming increasingly popular with the urban agriculture movement and the rising interest in more sustainable gardening practices. Worms also eat paper and [&#8230;]

<h6>Vermicomposting = worm composting</h6>
<figure id="attachment_4157" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4157" style="width: 232px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-bin-3layer_small-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" class=" wp-image-4157" src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-bin-3layer_small-225x300.jpg" alt="worm bin" width="232" height="310" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-4157" class="wp-caption-text">Three layer worm bin. Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
<p>Do you live in a small space and want to have a neat little efficient compost bin to recycle your kitchen scraps? Vermiculture, also known as worm composting, is becoming increasingly popular with the urban agriculture movement and the rising interest in more sustainable gardening practices. Worms also eat paper and this can fill a niche for anyone working towards zero waste in their household.</p>
<p>Composting with worms is similar to having a regular compost pile. You add layers of browns and greens, always cover your fresh food waste, turn it occasionally, say once a week, keep it moist and harvest the worm castings. It’s best to purchase a worm bin that has three layers and catches the water in the bottom. You can also <a href="https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/media/sfylifasufledu/orange/hort-res/docs/pdf/021-Vermicomposting---Cheap-and-Easy-Worm-Bin.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">make your own worm bin</a> using plastic containers.</p>
<h6>Composting worms are special</h6>
<p>Worms are living creatures and require special care. They may need some temperature moderation in hot or cold climates, like us humans. The ideal temperature for worms is between 60 and 80 degrees F. Place the bin in a shady area, not in direct sun. Composting worms do not burrow in the earth like regular earthworms; they naturally live above the ground in the leaf litter layer. To simulate their natural environment in a worm bin, use shredded paper, cardboard or plant leaves. The “bedding” is the base and top of each worm bin layer and the fresh food is in between, like a sandwich.</p>
<figure id="attachment_4158" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4158" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worms-inhand_small-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-4158 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="worms in hand" width="300" height="225" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worms-inhand_small-300x225.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-4158" class="wp-caption-text">Composting worms. Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
<h6>Worms eat fruit and vegetables, and paper!</h6>
<p>Composting worms like a vegetarian diet of mostly fruits and vegetables. Their preferred foods include banana peels, apple cores, tomato, lettuce, kale, and most other fruits and vegetables. I think watermelon rinds are their absolute favorite food; you will see a bunch of worms piled up on the watermelon to eat it. They love the pulpy by-product from juicing and coffee grinds. Chopping your fruits and vegetables will speed up the decomposition process, the smaller, the better. Cooked fruit and vegetables are ok, preferably without too much oil.</p>
<figure id="attachment_4159" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4159" style="width: 311px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/compost-scraps-small-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-4159" src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/compost-scraps-small-300x225.jpg" alt="food scraps" width="311" height="233" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-4159" class="wp-caption-text">Kitchen food scraps. Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
<p>Go light on the carbs! Beware of adding bread and carbohydrate rich foods that can attract unwanted bugs like soldier flies. Soldier flies do not harm the worms but will eat the food and may heat up the bin if there are too many. Meat and dairy should be avoided because they can smell bad and harbor pathogens harmful to humans. Worms don’t really like citrus or onion because they are hard to break down and in excess, can make the bin acidic. <a href="https://islandscene.com/hawaii-perfect-for-papaya" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Papaya seeds</a> should be avoided because the high dose of papain may slow the worms reproduction. Avocado seeds, peach pits and mango seeds can be added but they are slow to decompose and they might start growing. These items and any other large compost items should be placed in your regular <a href="https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep323" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">compost pile</a> to break down.<a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-paper-shredding_small-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignleft wp-image-4160 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="hand tearing newspaper" width="180" height="240" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-paper-shredding_small-225x300.jpg"></a></p>
<h6>Bedding for worms</h6>
<p>Every time you add food, cover with plenty of moist paper bedding. Newspaper works great and can easily be torn in strips by hand. You can use shredded office paper, coconut coir, cereal boxes, paper egg cartons, toilet paper rolls, junk mail minus the plastic window, and plant leaves. Avoid using heavy colored glossy paper or wax coated cardboard.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h6>Use grit to aid worm digestion</h6>
<p>Worms have no teeth and like a bird they break down food in their gizzard. It’s recommended to add some sort of “grit” to the bin such as rock dust, eggshells, or azomite to aid in the digestive process in the worm’s gizzard. These mineral rich additives will also improve the nutrient quality of your finished worm products that will help your plants grow.</p>
<figure id="attachment_4161" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4161" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-grit-inhand_small-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-medium wp-image-4161 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="worm grit" width="225" height="300" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-grit-inhand_small-225x300.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-4161" class="wp-caption-text">Add worm grit to aid digestion and add minerals. Photo: Tia Silvasy</figcaption></figure>
<h6>Using the three-bin worm system</h6>
<p>Home worm composting bins usually have multiple layers, arranged vertically. One layer is the active feeding layer while the other layers are resting. You can start the rotation when the bottom layer is fully decomposed and ready to harvest. Empty it out and put it on the top and start over. Instead of dumping the finished worm castings out on a tarp and separating the worms by hand, you can use a passive technique that includes drying out the finished worm compost and encouraging the worms to move to lower layers.</p>
<figure id="attachment_4162" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4162" style="width: 282px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-castings-coir_small.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-4162" src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-castings-coir_small-300x225.jpg" alt="worm bin with coir" width="282" height="212" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-4162" class="wp-caption-text">Add coconut coir to the worm bin to dry it out and chase worms downwards.</figcaption></figure>
<p>When the composting process is finished and you no longer see paper or food scraps, put the layer on the top. Add some coconut coir or potting soil and mix it in to reduce the moisture content in the worm castings. Do not water this layer so it can dry out and mix it frequently. This causes the worms to crawl down to where you have the fresh food and leave the bin containing the finished castings ready to harvest!</p>
<h6></h6>
<h6>What to do with your worm compost</h6>
<p>Worm compost is sometimes referred to by gardeners as “black gold” because it contains nutrients, organic matter, and beneficial microbes that help improve plant health. Add the worm compost to your potting soil mix (up to 20% by volume). You can also use it to top dress your container plants, mix it into your vegetable garden, and use it in any other way you would use regular compost. Worm compost can also be used to make worm tea to drench plant roots or spray on foliage.</p>
<h6>What is worm tea?</h6>
<p>Worm tea is worm compost that has been steeped in water for some time. Worm tea can be brewed in a 5-gallon bucket that is mixed by hand or aerated to mix with an aquarium bubbler. The nutrient content and concentration of beneficial microbes can vary based on the compost feedstock, length of time brewed, and amount of aeration or mixing. For more info on worm tea, read <a href="https://www.sare.org/wp-content/uploads/Compost-Tea-Manual.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tea Time in the Tropics.</a></p>
<h6>Beware of worm leachate</h6>
<figure id="attachment_4163" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4163" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-tea_small-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-medium wp-image-4163 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="worm leachate" width="300" height="225" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/files/2020/12/worm-tea_small-300x225.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-4163" class="wp-caption-text">Worm leachate drips out of the worm bin.  Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
<p>If you are composting with worms, it is important to learn the difference between worm tea and worm leachate. Worm tea comes from worm compost that is soaked in water for some time. Work leachate is the liquid that drips out of the worm bin. Leachate comes from the water that releases from your fruit and vegetable food scraps. It contains some nutrients but must be used with caution because it may contain harmful anaerobic bacteria if it has been sitting for a while. The safest thing to do is dump the leachate out on non-food crops.</p>
<h6>Troubleshooting</h6>
<p><strong>What should I do if my worms are crawling out?</strong> The bin is too wet or dry or too hot. Add bedding, move to shade or put in frozen water bottles to cool it down.</p>
<p><strong>What if my bin smells bad?</strong> Bin is out of balance with too much food. Add more bedding, mix food around with paper, stop watering and let the bin dry out a little bit.</p>
<p><strong>What should I do if I have other critters, soldier fly larvae or little snails?</strong> These creatures are usually harmless, just let it be or reduce feeding and add more bedding. Cut the food up into smaller particles for quicker decomposition. Pick the insects out by hand if they bother you.</p>
<p><strong>What if my worm castings are too wet?</strong> Reduce watering and add carbonaceous materials such as shredded paper, newspaper, cardboard, coconut coir, peat moss or potting mix.</p>
<h6>Learn more about vermicomposting:</h6>
<p><iframe loading="lazy" title="Vermicomposting: Composting with Worms" width="500" height="281" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KGW0gbZOLxY?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<p>University of Florida &#8211; Vermicomposting<br />
<a href="https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/vermicomposting/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/vermicomposting/</a></p>
<p>North Carolina State Extension &#8211; Vermicomposting<br />
<a href="https://composting.ces.ncsu.edu/vermicomposting-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://composting.ces.ncsu.edu/vermicomposting-2/</a></p>
<p>Washington State University &#8211; Composting with Red Worms<br />
<a href="http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/Redwormsedit.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/Redwormsedit.htm</a></p>
<p>Want to learn more?  Check out horticulture classes offered by UF/IFAS Extension Orange County at <a href="http://www.ocextension.eventbrite.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">www.OCExtension.eventbrite.com</a>.  Read about Florida-Friendly Landscaping&#x2122; at  <a href="https://ffl.ifas.ufl.edu/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://ffl.ifas.ufl.edu/</a>. Follow us on Facebook at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/GardenFlorida/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.facebook.com/GardenFlorida/</a> and Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/oc_extension/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/oc_extension/</a>.</p>


Vermicomposting = worm composting
Three layer worm bin. Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS
Do you live in a small space and want to have a neat little efficient compost bin to recycle your kitchen scraps? Vermiculture, also known as worm composting, is becoming increasingly popular with the urban agriculture movement and the rising interest in more sustainable gardening practices. Worms also eat paper and this can fill a niche for anyone working towards zero waste in their household.
Composting with worms is similar to having a regular compost pile. You add layers of browns and greens, always cover your fresh food waste, turn it occasionally, say once a week, keep it moist and harvest the worm castings. It’s best to purchase a worm bin that has three layers and catches the water in the bottom. You can also make your own worm bin using plastic containers.
Composting worms are special
Worms are living creatures and require special care. They may need some temperature moderation in hot or cold climates, like us humans. The ideal temperature for worms is between 60 and 80 degrees F. Place the bin in a shady area, not in direct sun. Composting worms do not burrow in the earth like regular earthworms; they naturally live above the ground in the leaf litter layer. To simulate their natural environment in a worm bin, use shredded paper, cardboard or plant leaves. The “bedding” is the base and top of each worm bin layer and the fresh food is in between, like a sandwich.
Composting worms. Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS
Worms eat fruit and vegetables, and paper!
Composting worms like a vegetarian diet of mostly fruits and vegetables. Their preferred foods include banana peels, apple cores, tomato, lettuce, kale, and most other fruits and vegetables. I think watermelon rinds are their absolute favorite food; you will see a bunch of worms piled up on the watermelon to eat it. They love the pulpy by-product from juicing and coffee grinds. Chopping your fruits and vegetables will speed up the decomposition process, the smaller, the better. Cooked fruit and vegetables are ok, preferably without too much oil.
Kitchen food scraps. Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS
Go light on the carbs! Beware of adding bread and carbohydrate rich foods that can attract unwanted bugs like soldier flies. Soldier flies do not harm the worms but will eat the food and may heat up the bin if there are too many. Meat and dairy should be avoided because they can smell bad and harbor pathogens harmful to humans. Worms don’t really like citrus or onion because they are hard to break down and in excess, can make the bin acidic. Papaya seeds should be avoided because the high dose of papain may slow the worms reproduction. Avocado seeds, peach pits and mango seeds can be added but they are slow to decompose and they might start growing. These items and any other large compost items should be placed in your regular compost pile to break down.
Bedding for worms
Every time you add food, cover with plenty of moist paper bedding. Newspaper works great and can easily be torn in strips by hand. You can use shredded office paper, coconut coir, cereal boxes, paper egg cartons, toilet paper rolls, junk mail minus the plastic window, and plant leaves. Avoid using heavy colored glossy paper or wax coated cardboard.
 
Use grit to aid worm digestion
Worms have no teeth and like a bird they break down food in their gizzard. It’s recommended to add some sort of “grit” to the bin such as rock dust, eggshells, or azomite to aid in the digestive process in the worm’s gizzard. These mineral rich additives will also improve the nutrient quality of your finished worm products that will help your plants grow.
Add worm grit to aid digestion and add minerals. Photo: Tia Silvasy
Using the three-bin worm system
Home worm composting bins usually have multiple layers, arranged vertically. One layer is the active feeding layer while the other layers are resting. You can start the rotation when the bottom layer is fully decomposed and ready to harvest. Empty it out and put it on the top and start over. Instead of dumping the finished worm castings out on a tarp and separating the worms by hand, you can use a passive technique that includes drying out the finished worm compost and encouraging the worms to move to lower layers.
Add coconut coir to the worm bin to dry it out and chase worms downwards.
When the composting process is finished and you no longer see paper or food scraps, put the layer on the top. Add some coconut coir or potting soil and mix it in to reduce the moisture content in the worm castings. Do not water this layer so it can dry out and mix it frequently. This causes the worms to crawl down to where you have the fresh food and leave the bin containing the finished castings ready to harvest!

What to do with your worm compost
Worm compost is sometimes referred to by gardeners as “black gold” because it contains nutrients, organic matter, and beneficial microbes that help improve plant health. Add the worm compost to your potting soil mix (up to 20% by volume). You can also use it to top dress your container plants, mix it into your vegetable garden, and use it in any other way you would use regular compost. Worm compost can also be used to make worm tea to drench plant roots or spray on foliage.
What is worm tea?
Worm tea is worm compost that has been steeped in water for some time. Worm tea can be brewed in a 5-gallon bucket that is mixed by hand or aerated to mix with an aquarium bubbler. The nutrient content and concentration of beneficial microbes can vary based on the compost feedstock, length of time brewed, and amount of aeration or mixing. For more info on worm tea, read Tea Time in the Tropics.
Beware of worm leachate
Worm leachate drips out of the worm bin.  Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS
If you are composting with worms, it is important to learn the difference between worm tea and worm leachate. Worm tea comes from worm compost that is soaked in water for some time. Work leachate is the liquid that drips out of the worm bin. Leachate comes from the water that releases from your fruit and vegetable food scraps. It contains some nutrients but must be used with caution because it may contain harmful anaerobic bacteria if it has been sitting for a while. The safest thing to do is dump the leachate out on non-food crops.
Troubleshooting
What should I do if my worms are crawling out? The bin is too wet or dry or too hot. Add bedding, move to shade or put in frozen water bottles to cool it down.
What if my bin smells bad? Bin is out of balance with too much food. Add more bedding, mix food around with paper, stop watering and let the bin dry out a little bit.
What should I do if I have other critters, soldier fly larvae or little snails? These creatures are usually harmless, just let it be or reduce feeding and add more bedding. Cut the food up into smaller particles for quicker decomposition. Pick the insects out by hand if they bother you.
What if my worm castings are too wet? Reduce watering and add carbonaceous materials such as shredded paper, newspaper, cardboard, coconut coir, peat moss or potting mix.
Learn more about vermicomposting:

University of Florida – Vermicomposting
https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/vermicomposting/
North Carolina State Extension – Vermicomposting
https://composting.ces.ncsu.edu/vermicomposting-2/
Washington State University – Composting with Red Worms
http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/Redwormsedit.htm
Want to learn more?  Check out horticulture classes offered by UF/IFAS Extension Orange County at www.OCExtension.eventbrite.com.  Read about Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ at  https://ffl.ifas.ufl.edu/. Follow us on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/GardenFlorida/ and Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/oc_extension/.

Vermicomposting = worm composting Do you live in a small space and want to have a neat little efficient compost bin to recycle your kitchen scraps? Vermiculture, also known as worm composting, is becoming increasingly popular with the urban agriculture movement and the rising interest in more sustainable gardening practices. Worms also eat paper and […]

Vermicomposting (Using Worms for Composting)

I started a little vermiculture bin year before last with one cup of red wigglers from the local bait shop. I carefully sorted my garbage so there was no grease or animal protein in the bin and counted the worms every Saturday. Yes, I was a little obsessive about it. Sixth instar larvae of the [&#8230;]

<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="150" height="150" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" class="attachment-thumbnail wp-post-image lazyload" alt="Earthworms aren&#8217;t the only beneficial composters!" title="Earthworms aren&#8217;t the only beneficial composters!" style="float:left;border-color:#FFF" border="8" data-src="http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/nat/files/2014/09/AdultBSF-150x150.jpg"></p>
<p>I started a little vermiculture bin year before last with one cup of red wigglers from the local bait shop. I carefully sorted my garbage so there was no grease or animal protein in the bin and counted the worms every Saturday. Yes, I was a little obsessive about it.</p>
<div id="attachment_1446" style="width: 123px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/nat/files/2014/09/LyraEDISServlet.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-1446 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt=" Sixth instar larvae of the black soldier fly Credit: Bianca Diclaro, University of Florida Credit: Bianca Diclaro, University of Florida" width="113" height="150" data-src="http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/nat/files/2014/09/LyraEDISServlet.jpg"></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Sixth instar larvae of the black soldier fly<br />Credit: Bianca Diclaro, University of Florida<br />Credit: Bianca Diclaro, University of Florida</p>
</div>
<p>The initial population was twenty-four and during the cold month it had gotten down to twelve. The bin finally rebounded. The last time I counted, there were 499 worms. I spent an hour looking for another to make a round 500 but gave up. I decided my bin must be doing all right and let it drift into a period of what I assumed was benign neglect.</p>
<p>The next time I stirred up the bin I saw large flattened maggots that made me think I’d made a BIG mistake. The wigglers were still working, but I was mortified they might be in serious danger of compost collapse.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div id="attachment_1447" style="width: 208px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1447 size-full lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="AdultBSF" width="198" height="150" data-src="http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/nat/files/2014/09/AdultBSF.jpg"></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Adult Black Soldier Fly Credit: Lyle J. Buss, University of Florida</p>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>A little research revealed they are the larvae of the Black Soldier Fly (BSF).  Being a fly it lacks a stinger.</p>
<p>Turns out the fly is an outstanding composter of animal manure and animal protein as well as a deterrent to nuisance flies. It is being used on a industrial scale to turn offal into compost/fertilizer and the larvae make great fish or poultry feed.</p>
<p>They had come to my worm bin because I had let it get wetter than the perfect red wiggler moisture level and because I had become lax in my garbage sorting. Instead of a problem, I had a bonus.</p>
<p>Mature larvae move to a dryer space to pupate. This tendency allows backyard MacGyvers to assemble a bin with a spout to deliver the larvae directly to the chicken yard or fish pond. What looks like an icky monster is really another natural wonder with lots of applications.</p>
<p>Check these links for more information on the Black Soldier Fly and how it can complement your red wigglers.</p>
<p><a href="http://http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in830">http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in830</a><br />
<a href="http://http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/beneficials/beneficial-51_black_soldier_fly.htm">http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/beneficials/beneficial-51_black_soldier_fly.htm</a></p>
<div class='clearfix' id='about_author'>
<img width="80" height="80" align="left" class="avatar lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="PG" data-src="http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=a753c141d053e2b29fd266ce4d3d7ad5&amp;default=&amp;size=80&amp;r=PG"></p>
<div class='author_text'>
<h4>Author: <span>Jed Dillard &#8211; <a href="mailto:dillardjed@ufl.edu">dillardjed@ufl.edu</a></span></h4>
<p><span>Jefferson County Livestock and Natural Resources Agent with a commercial cow/calf background. My degree is in animal breeding, but I do more work wth forage systems. Long time clover/legume booster for both livestock and wildlife</span></p>
</div>
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<p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/nat/2014/09/12/earthworms-arent-the-only-beneficial-composters/">Panhandle Outdoors</a></p>


I started a little vermiculture bin year before last with one cup of red wigglers from the local bait shop. I carefully sorted my garbage so there was no grease or animal protein in the bin and counted the worms every Saturday. Yes, I was a little obsessive about it.

Sixth instar larvae of the black soldier fly
Credit: Bianca Diclaro, University of Florida
Credit: Bianca Diclaro, University of Florida
The initial population was twenty-four and during the cold month it had gotten down to twelve. The bin finally rebounded. The last time I counted, there were 499 worms. I spent an hour looking for another to make a round 500 but gave up. I decided my bin must be doing all right and let it drift into a period of what I assumed was benign neglect.
The next time I stirred up the bin I saw large flattened maggots that made me think I’d made a BIG mistake. The wigglers were still working, but I was mortified they might be in serious danger of compost collapse.
 

Adult Black Soldier Fly Credit: Lyle J. Buss, University of Florida
 
 
A little research revealed they are the larvae of the Black Soldier Fly (BSF).  Being a fly it lacks a stinger.
Turns out the fly is an outstanding composter of animal manure and animal protein as well as a deterrent to nuisance flies. It is being used on a industrial scale to turn offal into compost/fertilizer and the larvae make great fish or poultry feed.
They had come to my worm bin because I had let it get wetter than the perfect red wiggler moisture level and because I had become lax in my garbage sorting. Instead of a problem, I had a bonus.
Mature larvae move to a dryer space to pupate. This tendency allows backyard MacGyvers to assemble a bin with a spout to deliver the larvae directly to the chicken yard or fish pond. What looks like an icky monster is really another natural wonder with lots of applications.
Check these links for more information on the Black Soldier Fly and how it can complement your red wigglers.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in830
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/beneficials/beneficial-51_black_soldier_fly.htm


Author: Jed Dillard – dillardjed@ufl.edu
Jefferson County Livestock and Natural Resources Agent with a commercial cow/calf background. My degree is in animal breeding, but I do more work wth forage systems. Long time clover/legume booster for both livestock and wildlife

Panhandle Outdoors

I started a little vermiculture bin year before last with one cup of red wigglers from the local bait shop. I carefully sorted my garbage so there was no grease or animal protein in the bin and counted the worms every Saturday. Yes, I was a little obsessive about it. Sixth instar larvae of the […]

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